A Proper Local Feast. Your Guide to the Maltese Fenkata

If you’ve spent even a little time in Malta, you’ve probably heard someone mention a fenkata. It’s one of those words that pops up again and again, especially when locals are talking about food as it’s often referred to as the island’s national dish.

So, what is it exactly? In simple terms, fenek means rabbit in Maltese, and a fenkata is a full-on rabbit feast. It’s not just a dish, it’s an occasion. Rabbit has long been a staple here, known for its delicate flavour and tender white meat, and it’s widely considered one of Malta’s most traditional foods.

Go back a few centuries and things looked rather different. Malta didn’t have much land for grazing, so raising livestock wasn’t easy. Meat was mostly reserved for the upper classes, while everyone else relied heavily on fish from the surrounding sea.

That changed when restrictions on hunting rabbits were lifted during the time of the Knights of St John. Suddenly, rabbit became accessible to ordinary people, and it didn’t take long for it to become a favourite. Over time, it turned into something more than just a meal, it became something people gathered to celebrate.

There are even colourful mentions of rabbits in Malta’s past. Stories tell of artists causing a stir by eating rabbit pie in the 1500s, and court records from the early 1600s mention stolen meals that included rabbit.

Later on, under British rule, hunting became even more widespread, especially as men were encouraged to join local militias and were given firearms. By the early 20th century, keeping and raising rabbits was both a pastime and a practical source of food.

A proper fenkata isn’t something fast. It’s a long, sociable meal, usually enjoyed in a rustic setting, often in the countryside rather than a polished city restaurant. Think simple wooden tables, plenty of conversation, and a steady flow of local wine. Forget being overly formal with cutlery, this is the kind of meal where you roll up your sleeves and get stuck in.

The food itself usually arrives in stages. It’s designed to feed a crowd, and generously so. Most fenkatas start with a plate of spaghetti tossed in a rich rabbit sauce, slow-cooked with tomatoes, garlic, herbs and sometimes peas. While you’re waiting, there might be small plates to nibble on, perhaps fried offal, snails, or other traditional bites.

Then comes the main event. Rabbit is typically served either fried with plenty of garlic or as a hearty stew cooked in wine, tomatoes and bay leaves. It’s often accompanied by potatoes and a few simple vegetables. And the portions? Let’s just say you’ll want to arrive hungry. No one leaves a fenkata feeling peckish!

You can find rabbit on menus across Malta, but if you want the real experience, you’ll need to head a little off the tourist trail. The best fenkatas are usually found in the countryside, especially in places like Mgarr, Bahrija, and Dingli.

In fact, Mgarr is often dubbed the island’s fenkata hub, with several long-standing spots known for doing it properly. If you’re keen to experience Malta through its food, a fenkata is well worth your time. 

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